A pair of lovely brown shoes with contrasting binding, welted and with a single heel life. The red binding really pops in these shoes, against the brown backing. I don’t normally post construction pictures, but I’ve started to take some as I work, and I figured you might like to see them!
On to the details…!
Whipping on the binding – I use this technique for thin bindings to give it that “rolled” edge. I tend to prefer this for two reasons – one, the finer binding looks more period, in as much as smaller tends to be better. Two, it is also faster, since I get to go through both layers of the binding at once. I’m using two strands of 16/1 linen thread for this.
Whipping in the heel stiffener – it can be done with a straight awl and some patience, also using two strands of 16/1 linen thread.
A close up visual of the side seam – it should be perfectly closed, with no puckering and no gapping. Note that technically, tacks are not necessary, as you can simply tug on the shoe as you sew, but I like them to fit the shoe closer to the last. There is also not as much evidence for this type of lasting based on the shoe finds.
Showing the inseamed shoes and the treadsoles.
A close up of the toe – I tend to snip the edges of the welt to help it be flatter around the heel and toe.
Sewing the outsole on – note that it has been soaked in the bucket for a good 30 minutes at least to make it pliable, and a deep groove cut into it.
In context – you’ll have to forgive the stars and moons =)