A new project – these are rather unusual shoes, and are based on a couple of images from some German painters (Cranach, most notably). First, let me give you finished product (although the picture does not really do them justice) and then go into detail.
Updated: 9/7/20 – it has been 9 years since I made these shoes. I’ve found quite a few more examples, but those only serve to further complicate things. As it should be, a good mystery! But, the indications are that at least in one example, the “black lines” in some of these shoes almost appear to be laces of some kind rather than simple slashes. This makes some sense, as the lines in all of the images are actually quite dark compared to their white contrasting background. Moreover, if they were indeed laces, they could just as easily have been made with white material as with black, which might explain the red and white shoe with no apparent laces, but there does not seem to be any evidence of lacing on that pair.
What was most unusual about these particular shoes was the black “strip” that surrounded the entire shoe. There are a couple of German pictures which shoe this type of “two-toned” shoe, and although my reproductions look similar, I’m not entirely satisfied with the design.
I just finished up a new pair of shoes based on the Wadden Sea shipwreck finds. Specifically, Fig 26 on Page 227, although there were some differences between my attempt and the actual pattern. First, let me give you the cookie, and you can dig for more details deeper in the post.
The structure is pretty similar to shoes that you’ve already seen on this site, although I typically attempt something new (a new stitch, technique, etc) with each piece I do, with the hopes of learning more each time!
Al Muckhart (http://wherearetheelves.net/) has put up some excellent cross sections of a 16th C. shoe and a 14th C. shoe – cross sections like these are excellent for understanding the detailed construction, as they give us details that are not always apparent from the extant evidence, which for obvious reasons, we cannot destroy! I’ve provided low resolution pictures here, but for high resolution images, do see the direct link on Al’s blog here.
The 16th C. Welted shoe – the heel stiffener is whipped into the quarters at the top, and then the upper is closed with the stiffener caught into the side seams. There is also an oblong reinforcement piece for the strap. The outsole is attached through the welt, and there is a heel lift.
The 14th C. Turn shoes – the heel stiffener is whipped into the upper, and there is a stiffening cord along the vamp opening. There is also a leather reinforcing band along the quarters opening.
I just posted a new Lesson on Late 16th C. Wedges (Cork). This lesson is based upon some engravings done in the late 16th C. of corked shoes which have a bit of a wedge heel.
These shoes have a carved cork interior acting as the wedge, and an extended rand which envelopes the cork wedge (often referred to as “envelope” construction). Enjoy!
Dedicated to the Research and Construction of Chopines, Pantoufles, Zoccoli, Shoes, Boots,and Other Raised and High Heels.
